Kirkstall Art Trail

ZaraMia told us that she found out about the Kirkstall Art Trail fashion show, from fellow designer Beth MacDonald. She said that, “As a sustainable designer I was interested in the upcycled aspect of the fashion show, [and] showcasing local designers”. Joining the event late, she also said that she, “didn’t have long to source the clothing from the Cancer Research charity shop to design, sew and remake the garments”. Read on to find out about ZaraMia’s ambition and her meticulous approach to designing clothes. 

Tell me about when you learnt to sew. 

I attended an Art course at Leeds Arts University, we were given projects in a variety of different creative areas such as photography, graphics, textile prints. I was drawn towards fashion from that moment, it was my aim to do this professionally. I then completed a National Diploma in Fashion, followed by a BA in Fashion Design. 

I currently run a sustainable fashion business, ‘ZARAMIA AVA’, producing zero waste, vegan and cruelty free contemporary menswear & womenswear clothing. Our signature look is contrasting structured shapes together with draping to construct a unique style. Our ethos is made for the fashion conscious with a conscience. 

“While most of the designers made one outfit, I couldn’t help going above and beyond with 4 outfits, a total of 11 garments, two scarves and a bag.“

The idea for a fashion show, came from Mandy Long, Kirkstall Art Trail’s committee chair. The Abbey Nave would be the perfect catwalk, and inspired by TV’s ‘Sewing Bee’, the idea began to take shape. We would ask local designers to transform second-hand clothes in to brand new outfits. We set out a budget to spend in Kirkstall’s Cancer Research Superstore, where many of the items are only £3.  With that in mind, tell me about your own journey with upcycling or reusing unwanted clothes.  

Since studying and making sustainable clothing, experimenting with natural fabrics and vintage second hand clothing, this was the first time I upcycled a mini collection of 4 outfits using only second hand materials.

Firstly, I visited the Cancer Research shop, in Kirkstall, where I had a good search for items which inspired me. I came away with a duvet set, a pair of curtains, a quilted coat, 2 jersey dresses, a pair of leggings, a playsuit, a pleather skirt and dress, a nude shift dress, a multicoloured top and a jump suit.

While most of the designers made one outfit, I couldn’t help going above and beyond with 4 outfits, a total of 11 garments, two scarves and a bag. Being zero waste is in my DNA, so I didn’t leave much scrap!

Tell me about your design process, from concept to completion. 

The inspiration came from the prints and texture of the clothing, from there I designed the outfits. Once all the garments had been unpicked I used my current designs as a basis for creating the new garments, mixing prints and using different fabrics together. Some of the brighter prints made great scarves to add colour to the monochrome bedding fabric. I used the cutout detail in the pleather dress to accent the sleeves of the black and burgundy jacket. The most interesting garment is the EMI dress. I cut the fabric pieces in diagonal shapes which gave a unique look to the up-cycled effect.

I found this an interesting challenge. Usually, I stick to subtle prints, neutral or understated colours, but I enjoyed introducing some brighter shades, mixing fabrics and different textures. Working with the pleather was surprisingly trouble-free.

It wasn’t all easy though! With only three weeks to complete the challenge, there was a great deal of work to be done to disassemble the charity shop clothes and piece together enough fabric to bring the vision to life. I even added lining to all but 3 of the garments and finished everything with our signature label. 

The fashion show was called ‘Gaia – Mother Earth Fashion Remade’.  Tell me about this name, what does it mean to you? 

The ‘Gaia Mother Nature Fashion Remade’ theme was captivating. As a sustainable fashion designer I have a passion for anything to do with up-cycling, sustainability and fashion, so I was absolutely delighted to take part in the Gaia – Mother Nature: Fashion Remade challenge in Kirkstall, Leeds. The charity event, which was part of the Kirkstall Art Trail, culminated in a brilliant catwalk show on 21st July.

We already implement circularity in fashion in our business, having circular fashion ranges that can be sent back and remade into something new. The up-cycling method is such a great circular strategy. Taking discarded, unwanted garments that inevitably would have at some point ended up as landfill, making them into new modern outfits gives the fabric a new lease of life.

You didn’t just turn up on the Sunday of the Trail, and send your models down the runway, you had to plan the show and rehearse. Tell me about this experience. 

We had a rehearsal a few weeks before so there was a plan for the day, I felt more prepared and it was great to see the fashion show come to life. I was one of 16 designers who took on the challenge of transforming charity shop bargains into outfits. The show, in the stunning Kirkstall Abbey ruins, presented the results of the challenge and showcased creativity, imagination and style. There had been a lot of work behind the scenes. I was excited to see the outfits on the catwalk and our models, did a brilliant job of bringing them to life.

“I was happy to be involved with Kirkstall Art Trail, there was a lot of support before and after the show I am looking forward to next year’s show. It’s been a great experience both creatively and practically.“

Finally, there were almost 200 people in the audience on the day. It wouldn’t have been the huge success it was, without your input. Tell me about this day and what the future holds for you now.

The circularity of the up-cycling technique is something that I will implement more of into my business. I will be sourcing unique fabrics with unusual textures more often from charity, vintage and second hand shops, like when I was a student.

The project was intriguing but also challenging in the way I had to meticulously place the fabrics to fit the pattern pieces, this in turn enabled me to create distinctive one of a kind garments. 

I was happy to be involved with Kirkstall Art Trail, there was a lot of support before and after the show I am looking forward to next year’s show. It’s been a great experience both creatively and practically. Thanks to the organisers of the Kirkstall Art Trail for the fashion show, our models and all those involved.