“I can’t remember where I first heard about the Kirkstall Art Trail Fashion Show”, Natalie told us. She was following Kirkstall Art Trail, and was pondering over whether to apply with her artwork or not. She also spotted the Fashion Show call-out in an Arts and Minds newsletter. Arts and Minds share “lots of amazing creative things!” One thing she did know, was that as soon as she saw the announcement she wanted to take part. 

Tell me about when you learnt to sew. 

I did my first bits of sewing during GCSE textiles at school. I think I made something ghastly, like Bay City Rollers inspired white and tartan trousers and a crushed velvet top with flared sleeves (very 70’s for circa 2001!). I was interested in fashion when I was younger and was often experimenting with customising my clothing and accessories.  Sewing coloured ribbons on to plain T shirts and making fancy dress costumes, things like that. Though, drawing and visual arts were more my thing at the time. 

Although, I do remember sending a bunch of unsolicited, stapled together sheets of drawings of garments I had ‘designed’ and coloured in, to the faculty at Leeds College of Art when I was only about 12 or 13 years old, so maybe it was meant to be!

I followed my A Levels, by completing a Foundation Art & Design course at Leeds College of Art. It’s during this course that I decided I wanted to study Fashion Design at University (I had wanted to do Graphic Design). 

I set out on a 4yr degree course, including an industrial work placement, at Northumbria University in Newcastle. This is where I learned to pattern cut and sew. Although, I think I learned more about construction from the technician ladies in the sewing room than from the actual course content or tutors. Most of the time we were just given a book and left to get on with it – so I certainly don’t believe you need a degree to do this! 

Pattern cutting was drilled into my muscle memory through endless practice, during a work placement with Designer Nicola De Main in East London. I spent hours tracing off paper patterns from the previous season collection onto card, with every design in multiple sizes.

After university, making clothing took a back seat as I focused more on making bags, jewellery and other small accessories. I sold these on Etsy and a local handmade shop, along with at a few craft fairs.

In more recent years, I have continued to learn and experiment with different crafts and textile arts such as knitting, weaving, macrame, rag rugging, Kumihimo, embroidery, wire wrapping and quilling, as well as returning to my first loves of drawing, painting, photography and print. Most of all I enjoy combining different techniques and materials in interesting ways and have taken part in many group exhibitions in gallery spaces across Yorkshire in the last couple of years. I think creativity is food for the soul, great for mental health and for me it is definitely what makes life worth living.

“I think learning to sew is an essential skill, because it is great to be able to alter things to fit you, especially when you are buying second hand.“

The idea for a fashion show, came from Mandy Long, Kirkstall Art Trail’s committee chair. The Abbey Nave would be the perfect catwalk, and inspired by TV’s ‘Sewing Bee’, the idea began to take shape. We would ask local designers to transform second-hand clothes in to brand new outfits. We set out a budget to spend in Kirkstall’s Cancer Research Superstore, where many of the items are only £3.  With that in mind, tell me about your own journey with upcycling or reusing unwanted clothes.  

I haven’t watched Sewing Bee, but when I was younger, I liked creative transformation shows like Changing Rooms and Project Runway. I also have interest in the environment and what happens to the things we throw away. 

In terms of sewing, I had previously made things like handbags, purses and hair accessories from vintage curtains and scarves. This is partly because I’m drawn to prints and loved the materials. It also worked out a lot cheaper than buying new quilting fabrics that are often too lightweight and can be very expensive. I also made some wallets where the outer covers were from old leather jackets or boots, and even experimented with making fabric beads for jewellery making. 

I like the ‘waste nothing’ kind of concept. Unfortunately, this ethos does create a problem when it comes to storage as I work from a home studio and when trying to keep everything from sewing thread to the tiniest scraps of fabric, finding a way to keep it all organised can be quite a challenge! Anything I can’t reuse, I send for recycling, nothing goes to landfill on my watch. I have even cut up an old mattress protector to stuff a knitted cushion that I made. 

I’d love to get an embroidery machine, so that I can make abstract textile arts out of all of the leftover scraps of yarn from my woven or macrame wall hangings. I have started making a range of jewellery that I call ‘Journey Jewellery’, from some of my long cotton fabric scraps. I have a whole stash of old jersey garments from my own wardrobe that I intend to use for rag rugging craft projects.

I think learning to sew is an essential skill, because it is great to be able to alter things to fit you, especially when you are buying second hand. I have an hourglass body shape and quite a short torso, so I often find that everything is too long in the shoulder to bust area. I’m constantly having to shorten straps to alter gaping armholes and take in waistbands. I had to alter existing arments that were now too large after losing weight, as well as second-hand garments that I’d bought or had been gifted. This got me back into the swing of wanting to make clothing again, after many years away from the sewing machine. 

“I think when it comes to upcycling it is important that you can remain flexible and don’t be afraid to change your ideas as you go along.”

Tell me about your design process, from concept to completion. 

If I make something from scratch, without any limitations, I would probably have an idea of the design before buying materials. But, as we were required to purchase all our materials from the Cancer Research Superstore in Kirkstall, it made more sense to browse and come up with ideas later. 

I had a rough idea that I might want to make an open-fronted jacket, which I would need woven materials for. And a dress that would require stretch jersey, as I wanted it to be comfortable to wear. I wanted to create a macrame detail on the neckline of the dress, and strips of jersey would be best for that. 

My main criteria when looking for items was to look for colours that I liked, that went together as a colour palette, and to find the best quality materials, ideally with some variation in textures. For example, I managed to find a velvet top and a corduroy dress in a very similar shade of burgundy. The two different textures created a lovely subtle contrast that would add interest to the outfit as a whole. 

I estimated how many garments I might need. I ended up buying 2 woven dresses, a pair of lightweight flared jeans, 3 jersey dresses, a t-shirt and a stretch velvet long sleeved top. 

In the end, I decided that I would instead make a skirt with an elasticated waist and a vest top that I could tuck in. Rather than doing macrame onto the neckline of the top, I also decided it might be better to try and make a necklace from strips cut from leftover fabric. I returned to the charity shop to buy something with a chain, so I could use it for threading the strips onto.

Next, I washed the garments and unpicked them carefully, this was so I could preserve as much of the fabric as possible. I even managed to re-use some of the binding from around the armholes of one of the dresses to bind the seams inside my jacket.

I owned an old jacket that was torn and didn’t fit me properly anymore, I thought that would work as a good starting point for drafting my own pattern. The design would need changing, but it had the open fronted style that I was going for. 

I took half of it apart, so that I could see the separate pieces. I then drew on the other half with tailors chalk and pins, marking changes for my design and for resizing. I then made the back length shorter and angled towards the front. I removed the darts and seams, and changed the size and shape of the collar and front panels. I added in some new panels that looked nice, but would also help me add in extra fit across the back where it was too tight.

I tried to work out how to create a patchwork effect with my different fabrics for each of the panels as I went along. I didn’t need a sleeve pattern, as I could use the sleeves off of the velvet top that I had bought. This would not only save me time making the sleeves, but also make the sleeves more comfortable. 

I traced my pattern, and then used calico to cut out, to make a toile (mock up), and try it on. I was pleased with how well this make had worked out. I only had to make minor changes to a couple of the pattern pieces, before cutting out my real fabric. It took me quite a while to work out which pieces to do in which fabric and how best to place them, as I didn’t have enough to make mistakes.

I had to cut a couple of the pattern pieces into two smaller pieces, and cut them out in different directions to patch together. This was a bit more work, so not ideal, but looked good in the end. I doubled up my denim and printed fabrics to match the thickness of the corduroy. I bound all my seams to make it look as lovely on the inside as out, I think making your own clothes should be all about the details! 

Something I hadn’t planned with the jacket is, you can actually wear the front panels in 3 different ways, to give 3 different looks. A very welcome happy accident.

With the skirt and top I didn’t make a full pattern or do any mockups – it was a bit more of a ‘make it up as you go along’ process. I looked at the pieces that I had after unpicking the jersey garments, and decided to try and keep it simple. 

For the top, I cut off the top part of the pink sleeveless dress. I unpicked the side seams to make the armholes fit better, and adjusted the length, so it stopped just under the bust. I patchworked a repeat rectangle pattern, using the remaining jersey colours (double thickness) to create the body of the top. I then overlocked this onto the top part. 

The skirt was a bit more complicated. From a dress, I kept the main part of the dip hem skirt, and decided to make it more interesting by adding some coloured panels to the sides. The skirt would also include pockets. After unpicking the side seams, I drew out the full shape of the side panels onto a large sheet of pattern paper. I then broke that shape up into smaller angular shapes, I would then join together with straight lines on the overlocker. I assigned colours to each of these shapes with a code e.g. P1, P2, P3, T1, T2 and so on. I traced each shape to make pattern pieces, before cutting them all out in the other jersey fabric colours. 

Once finished, I overlocked the side panels back into the side seams of the skirt, and created a little box pleat at the top. I gathered the fabric at the front of the skirt and made a waistband out of the same stretch velvet that I had used for the sleeves on the jacket. I also added an elasticated channel in pink jersey at the back waist, to take in excess material and make it easy to get on and off and comfortable to wear. 

Before attaching the waistband, I decided I liked the side panels so much that I also wanted to have another panel down the back. I only wish I didn’t start making this panel 2 days before the show! All the hard work paid off in the end though, as I was really surprised and pleased by the end result.

I cut much of the leftover jersey into long 1.5cm wide strips. I intended to used these to make a macrame necklace, but unfortunately I did not get this finished in time for the show. I completed this afterwards though, and decided to keep it natural and fringed instead. I think when it comes to upcycling it is important that you can remain flexible and don’t be afraid to change your ideas as you go along.

“It would be great if this show helped to make people think a bit differently about how they consume fashion. Everyone likes to look good, but it can be fun when you put some limitations in place and start to think about it creatively.“

The fashion show was called ‘Gaia – Mother Earth Fashion Remade’.  Tell me about this name, what does it mean to you? 

At the initial meeting, they came up with suggestions and ideas for the name of the show (I was on holiday, so missed the meeting). Afterwards, we voted on the name via WhatsApp, and ‘Gaia – Mother Earth fashion remade’ came out as the winner. I didn’t actually know what Gaia meant (a word of Greek origin meaning ‘the earth’). After looking it up I thought it was quite fitting. I was keen for it to remain clear that the show was about recycling and that the marketing stay simple and as down-to-earth as possible. 

I like that ‘fashion remade’ has a double meaning. It suggests the act of upcycling, but also that we need to take a second look at how we approach fashion. These industries can be so damaging to the planet. 

Although sustainability was not covered in the course, I took a personal interest in sustainable fabrics when I was completing my degree. I read about the different materials and sourced alternatives, where possible, for my final collection. The materials included organic cotton, hemp, bamboo, silk, recycled polyester, and even banana fibre.

I’ve always had an interest in selling used clothing for extra money. First through eBay and more recently through the Vinted App. I also give to charity shops, there are so many ways to rehome your unwanted stuff. These are also great places to pick up something preloved or find materials to get creative with. Clothes swapping events and ‘scrap’ stores are great places too. 

One of the reasons that I returned to making clothing, is that after years of trying, I finally managed to lose weight. So, partly as a reward for my hard work and partly through necessity, I decided to update my wardrobe. The quality and the cheap synthetic matierials used in garments, sold in the shops, disappointed me. I disagree with the idea of fast fashion and throw-away clothing – where they launch new styles far too often. 

I love collecting, creating and curating a mix and match wardrobe of timeless pieces, that work with my body shape and style. I keep them for as long as possible, then pass on or reuse creatively when I’m done with them. I make an effort to cultivate a mindset of ‘less, but better’. I decided I would buy new sparingly (buying the best quality that I could afford), actively supporting British brands who are working towards becoming greener. The rest of my wardrobe would be second hand, and clothes I make myself, either by recycling fabrics or buying quality, sustainable fabrics where possible.

It would be great if this show helped to make people think a bit differently about how they consume fashion. Everyone likes to look good, but it can be fun when you put some limitations in place and start to think about it creatively. It’s not about shaming or making people feel bad. It’s about showing what’s possible and inspiring those already interested in sustainability to give it a go.

You didn’t just turn up on the Sunday of the Trail, and send your models down the runway, you had to plan the show and rehearse. Tell me about this experience. 

I nearly dropped out of the show before the making even started. I was not very well and didn’t know whether I would be able to concentrate and give it the attention that it needed and deserved. In the end, I decided that I had been looking forward to taking part for so many weeks, that I could not let the opportunity go. I threw myself into the making as best as I could, and found that it actually came as a welcome distraction to how I was feeling. It meant that I ended up starting work on my outfit later than I would have liked!

I decided to model my outfit myself, it is easier and more convenient to make for yourself. I could fit and make adjustments as I was making, I didn’t need to plan fitting sessions with a model. 

But, I have to admit that I was a bit nervous about going down the catwalk as a model, as it is not something that I have done before! 

It was lovely to meet most people for the first time at the rehearsal at Kirkstall Abbey. This was 3 weeks before the show, and suddenly everything started to feel much more ‘real’! I was nervous, but also excited that we were going to be doing the show in this beautiful old venue. I didn’t even know that nave in Kirkstall Abbey, which we used for the catwalk, even existed! The rehearsal went well and cleared up any outstanding questions, so that it was then all hands on deck to get our outfits finished on time.

“I’ve learned to believe in myself more, and remember that if I think that I can do something then I probably can. I should go for it rather than overthinking things and doubting myself. I’ve definitely got the sewing bug back.“

Finally, there were almost 200 people in the audience on the day. It wouldn’t have been the huge success it was, without your input. Tell me about this day and what the future holds for you now.

I was still nervous about going down the catwalk on the day, in front of the audience. When the time came, I went for it, and enjoyed myself, it went by in a flash. I’m proud of myself and what I managed to create, even though I was struggling with some health problems. 

I’ve learned to believe in myself more, and remember that if I think that I can do something then I probably can. I should go for it rather than overthinking things and doubting myself. I’ve definitely got the sewing bug back. I’ve already made a few more purchases from my local RSPCA charity shop, that I will be using for upcycling. I would like to start documenting the process more.

I would 100% like to work with Kirkstall Art Trail again if the fashion show makes a comeback next year. I think it will be even more fun and impressive next time, when we all know more about the process and what to expect.

Moving forward professionally, I intend to update and improve my online presence. Making it clearer what I am about, and actually showing what I’m capable of, as I have not been doing this for quite a while now. I’m going to start selling handmade products online again, and in the future would love to start selling my work to independent retailers. 

I’m going to put together a new portfolio of my artwork, with a leaning towards print design for textiles. But most of all my biggest ambition is to create a series of creative online classes, around my interests. I will use my skills and knowledge to help other people become more creative and resourceful, whilst also having fun.